What Is the Palestinian Keffiyeh?
The keffiyeh – also spelled kufiya, hatta or shemagh – is a square cotton headscarf, traditionally around 125cm by 125cm, recognised the world over by its black-and-white chequered pattern. For most people it is instantly readable as the emblem of Palestine, sometimes described as the nation’s unofficial flag. But it is far more than an accessory. Over the past century this simple woven cloth has become a carrier of heritage, defiance and belonging, worn by farmers, freedom fighters, leaders and, today, millions of people around the globe who stand in solidarity with the Palestinian people.
This guide explains what the keffiyeh is, where it comes from, what its patterns mean, how to wear it, and how to buy a genuine one in the UK that actually supports Palestinians rather than the flood of cheap imitations.
The History of the Keffiyeh
The word “keffiyeh” is generally understood to mean “relating to Kufa,” a reference to the Iraqi city of Kufa, where the tradition of the headscarf is thought to have begun. Versions of the scarf were worn across the Middle East and North Africa for centuries as practical desert wear, shielding the wearer from sun, dust and wind.
In Palestine under Ottoman rule, the plain white keffiyeh was worn largely by rural farmers and Bedouins – the fellahin – while the urban educated elite tended to wear the red felt tarboosh (fez). Clothing marked class. That distinction did not survive the twentieth century. During the 1936–1939 Arab Revolt against British colonial rule, the keffiyeh became a badge of unity and resistance. When British authorities tried to ban it, Palestinians of every background began wearing it, making it far harder to single out rebels in a crowd. What had signalled the countryside now signalled a nation.
In the decades that followed, the black-and-white keffiyeh became inseparable from the Palestinian cause – above all through Yasser Arafat, who was rarely seen without one. He famously folded his into a triangle and draped it over his right shoulder in the rough shape of historic Palestine, turning the scarf into a globally recognised political symbol during the intifadas.
What the Keffiyeh Represents
At its heart, the keffiyeh represents three intertwined ideas: identity, resistance and solidarity. It ties the wearer to the land, the farmers and the fishing communities of Palestine; it recalls a long history of standing firm against occupation and erasure; and, worn by people far beyond Palestine, it signals shared support for Palestinian freedom, dignity and self-determination. Because it has been worn by men and women, across religions and generations, it has become a rare unifying symbol – one that speaks of a people rather than any single party or faction.
Symbolism in the Pattern
The black stitching on the white cotton is not merely decorative. While no single interpretation is officially “correct,” a handful of woven motifs carry widely shared meaning across Palestinian culture. Most keffiyehs combine three recurring elements.
| Pattern | What It Depicts | Meaning |
|---|---|---|
| Fishnet (the fatha) | A fisherman’s net | The connection to the Mediterranean and Palestinian fishers; also read as collectivism – individuals knotted into a stronger whole. |
| Bold lines | Trade routes | The historic routes linking Palestine to neighbouring merchants across the region. |
| Olive leaves | The olive branch | Perseverance, strength and an enduring bond with the land, echoing the olive tree’s central place in Palestinian life. |
Some Palestinians see other things again in the weave – a honeycomb, joined hands, ears of wheat, or even barbed wire standing for the occupation itself. That openness is part of the point: the pattern holds many stories at once.
What the Keffiyeh Means Today
Today the keffiyeh is worn at protests, at cultural events and in everyday life, from Ramallah to London to New York. For some it is deeply personal – a link to family, homeland and heritage. For others it is political – a visible act of solidarity. Very often it is both at once. Wearing it thoughtfully, and sourcing it responsibly, is a way of honouring that meaning rather than reducing it to a fashion print. When the scarf is bought from Palestinian makers, the act of wearing it also helps sustain the very craft and community it represents.
How to Wear a Keffiyeh
There is no single “right” way to wear a keffiyeh, and it suits men and women alike. Below are the most common styles, from the simplest to the most traditional. A standard scarf works for all of them; the fringes can be left to hang loose for a relaxed look.
The shoulder drape. The easiest starting point. Fold the keffiyeh into a triangle, rest it across your shoulders with the folded edge behind your neck, and let one end hang slightly longer than the other. This is the style seen most often internationally and pairs with almost any outfit.
The loose neck wrap. Fold the scarf lengthwise into a long strip, loop it once around the neck, and let the ends hang or tuck them in. Keep it loose rather than tight – quick, casual and warm.
The double-loop wrap. Fold into a long strip, wrap twice around the neck and tuck the ends for a cosier, layered look in colder weather.
The classic head wrap. Fold into a triangle and drape over the head with the folded edge just above the eyebrows, then wrap the ends around and secure them – traditionally held in place with an agal, the doubled black cord. In cold or windy conditions the side ends can be pulled up around the face. This is the everyday style worn across Palestine and carries the deepest cultural resonance.
The one-shoulder toss. Open the scarf fully and drape it over a single shoulder, one end longer than the other. Understated and easy, and the way Arafat’s iconic look began.
Where to Buy an Authentic Palestinian Keffiyeh in the UK
Most keffiyehs sold worldwide are now mass-produced overseas and have no real connection to Palestine. If you want your purchase to support Palestinians, buy from a maker or seller with a genuine link to the land. Here are the most reliable options for UK buyers.
Hirbawi (the last keffiyeh factory in Palestine)
The gold standard for authenticity. Founded in 1961 by Yasser Hirbawi in Hebron (Al-Khalil) in the occupied West Bank, Hirbawi is the last remaining factory still weaving the original Palestinian keffiyeh – one of roughly thirty that once operated before cheap imports flooded the market after 1993. Each scarf is 100% cotton, made in Palestine, and carries the Hirbawi trademark. The official Hirbawi store ships to the UK, and there are confirmed UK resellers. Buying here means your money goes directly to preserving the craft.
Solidarity and fair-trade stores
UK-based ethical platforms such as Zaytoun CIC, the Palestine Solidarity Campaign and Friends of Al-Aqsa periodically stock keffiyehs alongside other fair-trade Palestinian goods. Buying through these organisations supports Palestinian farmers, artisans and campaigning work at the same time.
Independent Palestinian sellers on Etsy
Several Palestinian-owned Etsy shops sell handmade keffiyehs in a range of colours, letting you buy directly from Palestinians themselves. Search for terms like “authentic Hirbawi keffiyeh” or “Palestinian scarf handmade,” and check the seller’s location and reviews before ordering.
London and in-person retail
Areas known for Middle Eastern goods, such as Edgware Road in central London and Shepherd’s Bush Market, sometimes carry keffiyehs, though authenticity varies widely – always check the label. Palestinian cultural events and solidarity stalls are often a better bet, as sales there usually support the cause directly.
Amazon UK (approach with caution)
Keffiyehs are widely listed on Amazon, but many are mass-produced in China or India and simply marketed as “Palestinian.” If you shop here, look carefully for a genuine “Made in Palestine” or Hirbawi label before buying.
How to Spot a Genuine Palestinian Keffiyeh
| What to Check | Genuine |
|---|---|
| Origin | Made in Palestine – ideally the Hirbawi factory in Hebron. |
| Label | Carries a genuine Hirbawi tag or a clear “Made in Palestine” mark. |
| Material | 100% cotton or a high-quality blend, not thin polyester. |
| Price | Authentic scarves typically cost around £25–£40; a very low price usually signals an imitation. |
Why Buying Authentic Matters
Every mass-produced import sold is one fewer Palestinian-made keffiyeh bought. Choosing a genuine scarf from a maker like Hirbawi or a solidarity retailer helps protect a traditional craft, sustains Palestinian livelihoods under extremely difficult conditions, and resists the quiet erasure of Palestinian culture. It turns wearing the keffiyeh into a small but real act of support – not just a statement, but a contribution.
If you would like to go further, you can explore the best Palestinian clothing and memorabilia to buy, browse authentic Palestinian jewellery and necklaces, or find the best ways to donate for Gaza, the West Bank and Palestine.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a keffiyeh, a shemagh and a ghutra? They are closely related. “Keffiyeh” usually refers to the traditional patterned scarf; “shemagh” is common in Western and outdoor markets; and “ghutra” is the term used more widely in the Gulf.
Why is the Palestinian keffiyeh black and white? These are its traditional colours, closely tied to its history and to Palestinian identity. Coloured versions exist – many pioneered by Hirbawi – but black-and-white remains the classic.
Can anyone wear a keffiyeh? Yes. Worn respectfully and understood as a symbol of Palestinian identity and solidarity, it is meant to be shared. Sourcing it from Palestinian makers is the most meaningful way to wear it.
References
- Al Jazeera – Symbols of Palestine: the keffiyeh, olive branch, Handala and watermelon.
- Middle East Eye – The Palestinian keffiyeh: all you need to know about its origins.
- Encyclopaedia Britannica – Kaffiyeh (keffiyeh) headdress.
- The National – Inside Hirbawi, Palestine’s last remaining keffiyeh factory.
- Middle East Monitor – Palestine’s last authentic keffiyeh factory stands strong.
